Review: Experimental Chalet Val d'Isère: First In

Why book Experimental Chalet Val d'Isère?

Because there aren’t many brands that do sophisticated hedonism quite like Experimental—and because this latest opening feels like a powder-fresh take on Alpine tradition in increasingly buzzy Val d’Isère.

Set the scene

It’s crisp outside. Inside, past the ponchos and fleece bucket hats in the little boutique on the left, there are copies of Le Figaro around the crackling ceiling-height fireplace in chunky Savoyard stone. From the geometric-pattern bench seats (“sexy National Express”, according to a fellow writer) to the wavy wood lobby, there’s barely a straight line in sight. Those with prior experience of the Experimental brand might note the familiar touch of interior designer Dorothée Meilichzon, the partner of Experimental co-founder Olivier Bon, whose playful brand of Haute whimsy has appeared in Experimental properties from Menorca to Biarritz and the Cotswolds. With staff in fluffy, fashion-forward fleece gilets, it invokes a particular feeling of 1990s childhood ski holidays, even though the many Alpine nods are played with sly originality (no mounted wooden skis here).

The backstory

Romée de Goriainoff, Pierre-Charles Cros, and Olivier Bon—childhood pals from Montpellier—opened the hype-magnet Experimental Cocktail Club speakeasy in the Marais in 2007. After Xavier Padovani joined the trio in 2010, the quartet branched into hotels with the Grand Pigalle Experimental in 2014. They’ve been growing their bon vivant empire in a hurry ever since, with standalone bars, beach clubs, and F&B-oriented hotels across the globe, from New York to Venice and Cannes. Val d’Isère is the brand’s 11th location, and the second in a ski resort, after the Experimental Chalet Verbier opened in late 2018—a redesign of the old four-star Hôtel Nevaï by designer Fabrizio Casiraghi, including the basement Farm Club where Bowie and Diana Ross kicked off their ski boots in the 70s. As per the brand blueprint of retooling existing properties, the Val property is a largely cosmetic takeover of L’Aigle De Neige, another tiring four-star but bigger than its Verbier counterpart, with 113 rooms in a locally typical stone and dark wood building barely a hundred yards from the key ski lifts. Bon skied here as a child, and Meilichzon’s parents have a flat here. It’s easy to detect a genuine fondness for local tradition in everything from the patches of stucco on ceilings to the trad-apres style of L’Aiglon, one of two restaurants, where great wedges of comté and gruyère are melted around a bulbous wood-fired oven in the center of the space. It will be open for the winter season, and many of the staff—the poor things—will then head to the Balearics for the summer.

The rooms

The Experimental Group subscribes to the old Schrager philosophy that downstairs should be where the fun—and the New Normandy Sours—are at. So it doesn’t feel in any way problematic that most rooms are just big enough, many with patterned seating areas in window recesses and Meilichzon-signature headboards that look like tactile wooden snowboards. The details are dialled in, from Brittany-made Davilaine mattresses to twig-shaped cupboard handles and toiletries by Swedish natural skincare brand L:a Bruket in smart bathrooms with organic marble mirrors and white and ochre tiles. Experimental’s design is always pleasing, from covetable pencils and tote bags to branded slippers and robes—and there are branded Paris Orchard Keeper calvados cocktails alongside the likes of Domaine d’Elise Chablis and local florentines in thoughtfully appointed minibars.

Food and drink

The ground-floor Experimental Cocktail Club, the sixth iteration of the brand’s signature creation, is a 1970s-inspired space of arches and plush steps up to the seating areas. With vintage spirits displayed like artworks, Antony Di Lorenzo oversees the bar, a handsome Italian who started at Experimental’s Prescription Cocktail Club in Paris, and spends his summers in Ibiza at Montesol Experimental and the Experimental Beach Club. His cocktail-throwing is worthy of Jerry Thomas, but he doesn’t overdo the theatrics for the 13-strong cocktail list that includes ubiquitous signatures like the Old Cuban with rum and Champagne, but also local twists like a Green Fizz with Chartreuse génépi and celery bitters—nicely paired with unctuous Beaufort croquettes. The two restaurants—the light-flooded L’Aigle D’Or brasserie and alpine-cozy Savoyard L’Aiglon—are overseen by chef Rudi Ballin, a Joël Robuchon-trained alumnus of Experimental’s Frenchie in Paris. Both menus veer comfortingly classic, with a sublime pâté en croûte, beechwood smoked foie gras, and a tender 45-day aged pork Tomahawk on the menu at L’Aigle D’Or, an ochre-accented neo-bistro with plush banquettes around a central bar (where the morning breakfast spread includes exquisite pastries). A trolley service for aperitifs, Champagnes, cheeses, and desserts emphasizes the sense of timeless intemperance. At the more intimate L’Aigle, with wall patterns inspired by traditional bread stamps, starters include a beautifully textured take on local marinated leek poireaux vinaigrette, before gooey raclettes of Grand Bornand reblochon or classic Savoyard fondue with Beaufort, comté, gruyère, and white wine, served with local charcuterie. So much cheese, yet it’s still worth making space to finish with a semi-deconstructed lemon cheesecake.

Away from the chalet

Val d’Isère was never exactly déclassé, but there was a time when its core clientele tended to be mid-market British families and seasonaires. It’s smartened up in recent years, with a wave of investment in the town and lifts, and openings like the mountaintop Refuge De Solaise and the ritzier piste-side Airelles Val d’Isère, next door to the Experimental Chalet. But forget the Moncler boutiques and the odd ESF instructor grumbling about rising prices. The real reason Val is a perennial is because the skiing’s great, with L’Espace Killy an intermediate ski paradise where it’s possible to happily ski two glaciers in a day: the Grand Motte, high above purpose-built Tignes, and the Pisaillas, just across the mountain from Val’s Solaise area.

Wellness

With the same layout as the old L’Aigle De Neige, the subterranean spa area is home to a lap pool surrounded by smart striped loungers, and a Nordic-style spa space with a sauna, steam room, and cold plunge. Down the corridor, there are treatment rooms for hot stone massages and facials, some conceived by German aesthetics pioneer Dr Barbara Sturm. I had a hyaluronic acid facial using products by Parisian brand Les Laboratoires Mansard. Whilst I’m no expert, I left feeling surprisingly glowing given I’d just arrived after a 4 a.m. start and long journey.

The staff

Those staff in the cool fluffy gilets talk about Experimental being a family. A hospitality cliche, for sure, but it feels right-on here. Given the size and scope of the portfolio, most of the staff come from other brand properties, and many—like mixologist De Lorenzo—have been promoted from within. Some are allowed to drift towards their passions, like Loic Monzali, who hosts press visits wearing great cashmere and an almost ever-present smile, but also sources mostly French indie brands for the various cool Experimental boutiques. There’s also a clear sensibility to the professional but relaxed service, which clearly comes from the top. For one dinner I was joined by Padovani, the fourth co-founder, who was wearing a Supreme snapback, with “Wine” and “Dine” tattooed on his knuckles. His passion and hunger for the brand—and for the link between Chartreuse monks and Tarantino (he didn’t mention the hangovers)—were plain to see. It’s telling that he and the other owners regularly meet up for cocktail-soaked jaunts to various Experimental properties, even in their downtime.

Who comes here?

Can we call them Experimentalists, the brand equivalent of Aman Junkies? Like Padovani, they’re possibly more likely to live in Clapton than Chelsea; perhaps a little more Bouchon Racine than Maison François. We spied a lady in an elegant yet pajama-like patterned silk ensemble and chatted to a good-looking American-Australian couple in the sauna, who were over from New York because it’s cheaper to fly to Europe for a week’s skiing than to pay the increasingly exorbitant lift pass fees in Colorado or Utah.

For families

As well as a splash in the indoor pool, a kid’s club and babysitting are available. There are children’s menus in both restaurants and easy access to ski schools. As well as three family suites, Olympique rooms can take an extra bed, and other rooms can connect.

Eco effort

The hotel has installed sensors, timers, and energy-efficient bulbs to reduce their energy and water consumption. Single-use plastic is avoided, waste is recycled wherever possible, cleaning products are eco-friendly, and local suppliers are used wherever possible.

Accessibility

While lobby steps make the hotel unsuitable for wheelchair users, the Val d’Isère Balcony, Mountain View, and Olympique rooms are adapted for guests with reduced mobility.

Anything else to mention?

Impressively, there’s an exclusive ski and snowboard rental space in the basement, with cool staff who can and will tell you where to find the best piste-adjacent powder. The little boutique concession by the reception is well worth a browse, stocking Experimental beanies, scarves, and staff-issue fleeces, but also a thoughtful selection from mostly (but not exclusively) small French brands: think Angarde fleece slippers, Van Palma fleece bucket hats or striped drawstring trousers from New York-based Heart and Lou’s.

Is it worth it?

Bien sûr. As with most Experimental hotels, room rates aren’t stratospheric, and are significantly lower than the Airelles Val d’Isère next door. More importantly, this is instantly the most fun hotel in town.