Review: First In: Delano Dubai

Why book

For an antidote to Dubai’s over-the-top marble and chandelier-laden five-star hotels.

Set the scene

When the Delano opened on Miami’s South Beach in 1995, it upended notions of luxury and brought a fresh energy to Florida’s hotel scene. Dubbed “a place for pleasure and play”, the property (named after US president Franklin Delano Roosevelt) was discreet, whimsical, and effortlessly cool. This was where Madonna, clad in pink Versace, celebrated her 37th birthday, where George Clooney stayed while filming Out of Sight, and where Jay-Z celebrated the launch of his book, Decoded.

Delano Miami was housed in an Art Deco seafront skyscraper reimagined by French design maestro Philippe Starck, who apparently drew inspiration from Alice in Wonderland’s trip down the rabbit hole. Among his now-legendary design touches were a metal holder fixed to the wall with the phrase “an apple a day keeps the doctor away” etched onto it, where a fresh apple would be placed daily.

The Delano brand’s debut in Dubai has the potential to be similarly disruptive. The Miami mothership looms large at the new Bluewaters property, which has confidently taken up residence in one wing of the former Caesars Palace, next to sister property Banyan Tree Dubai. The original Miami hotel was shrouded in tall hedges (reportedly to block out the sights of the then less-than-savory Collins Avenue, but also a useful way to manufacture a sense of intrigue). In Dubai, a green wall covered in lush vegetation greets guests as they drive up to the hotel. The white, semi-transparent curtains that once billowed on either side of the Miami entrance (another artful move in the game of “what lies beyond?”) soften the corridors of the new Dubai hotel. Photographs of the original property’s pool and gardens appear on the walls in guest rooms—and a fresh apple is delivered to your room every day.

Interiors are pared back, a la Monsieur Starck. In the lobby, views of the open sea through floor-to-ceiling windows do all the talking, while statuesque check-in desks, organically shaped furniture, and flashes of greenery break up the bright, airy space. The muted palette is punctuated by rare blasts of color—the wine-red of a velvet stool or dazzling cyan of a sculptural vase. The scale feels reassuring, a refreshing antidote to the overzealous proportions of many hotel lobbies in the region.

The backstory

Delano was the brainchild of the zeitgeist-busting Ian Schrager, who, having revolutionized New York’s club scene with the infamous Studio 54, went on to invent the boutique hotel—properties that were smaller and more intimate but also, as Schrager has always maintained, stylish, site specific, and with a distinct point of view. The Miami hotel, now part of the Ennismore portfolio, is currently closed for renovations and due to reopen in 2025. A Delano in Las Vegas is joined by a Parisian offshoot, Maison Delano on Rue d'Anjou.

The rooms

Evocatively lit corridors lead to Delano Dubai’s 251 rooms and suites. Forget your run-of-the-mill “standard” and “sea-view”—rooms here have romantic-sounding monikers like rising light and waking eclipse, references to the sweeping horizon and open sea views, more of a rarity in Dubai than you might think. The understated palette of the public spaces continues in the rooms, where white oak flooring is overlaid with wool rugs, king-size beds are framed by oversized headboards and custom-created artworks, and boucle sofas and chairs add an extra layer of texture and tactility to the space. The amenities are a highlight: Byredo bath products, Dyson hairdryers, plush waffle towels, and some of the most comfortable hotel slippers I’ve ever stepped into.

Our two-bedroom suite has a balcony that extends along the length of the room, and looks out over the swimming pool. This is the property’s epicenter and another nod to those Miami days, when the Delano pool was the place to see and be seen. Sunken furniture in the shallows is another signature that has been transposed to the UAE—and additional retro vibes come courtesy of yellow and white striped umbrellas and matching towels.

Food and drink

The hotel has launched with only its all-day dining restaurant, Tutto Passa, fully operational. Drawing inspiration from the Amalfi Coast, the restaurant offers a limited selection of Italian classics—from burrata and eggplant parmigiana to risotto, ravioli, and a handful of other pasta and pizza dishes. Breakfast is also served here, with a more interesting and varied selection, including cold antipasti, pretty pastries, chia, yogurt and muesli pots, smoked fish, and an a la carte menu featuring egg dishes, pancakes, waffles, and French toast.

Bites are also served in the Rose Bar, another much-loved Miami import. It may not offer the same Hollywood A-list-spotting opportunities, but the Dubai venue does a wonderful job of capturing the rich, decadent speakeasy vibes of the original, with its dim lighting, intimate booth-like seating, and walls covered in thick red velvet drapes. Homegrown hospitality leader, Rikas Group, will add a number of new dining venues into the mix in the coming months, including The Blue Door, Maison Revka, La Cantine Beach, and Gohan. In the meantime, guests seeking out variety can wander over to sister property, Banyan Tree Dubai.

The spa

The Banyan Tree's new full-fledged destination spa is a short walk away, so Delano has cleverly focused its efforts on fitness, with a 24-hour gym featuring cardio and free-weight equipment by Technogym, and a wellness studio concept developed with Adrienne Everett, yoga instructor, founder of HWH Studio and a one-time resident of the Delano Miami. There's indoor and outdoor spaces for barre work, Reformer Pilates, breath work, sound healing, meditation and yoga, and two treatment rooms for customized beauty and massage treatments.

The neighborhood/area

Dubai’s Bluewaters Island got off to a bit of a false start after Ain Dubai stopped turning, but the world’s tallest observation wheel is apparently set to begin operating again soon. There are plenty of other attractions to keep visitors busy in the meantime, including Madame Tussauds Dubai and a solid selection of shops, restaurants, and cafés, such as Drvn, where rare vintage Porsches form part of the decor. Looking out to the sea, and towards The Palm and the Dubai skyline, Bluewaters is a quieter, more refined alternative to JBR, and more easily accessible.

The service

Is a little inconsistent and will benefit from some fine-tuning as the hotel becomes more bedded in.

For families

A great pool area and one of the best stretches of beach in Dubai make this a good option for families. A dedicated kid’s club is on the way.